As I'm typing this, I am bound for Tokyo. Buses, streetcars, trains, and airplanes all play a part in my journey towards Japan's capital city. Why am I headed to Tokyo? Well, I'll tell you. After this quick commercial break...
Daddy's coming! Daddy's coming!
I heartily apologize to all of my readers for any terror-filled childhood flashbacks those words might have induced, but I'm excited! It took a bit of work, but my Dad was finally convinced that he should come see Japan while I was here to show him around. He had to come quick, I won't be in Japan much longer. That's right. I'm returning to the States at the end of the month, so start preparing.
It's funny that whenever the subject of my return to America has come up, practically all of my acquaintances here in Japan have said the same thing, "But you've only been here a year!" Disbelief sounds in their voices as if they were saying, "But you've only been here a few days!" A year is a fair amount of time to spend in a country, I think. That's certainly not to say that I've seen or learnt all Japan has to offer. On the contrary. There's much that I've not experienced and I hope to return someday to see a few of the things I have missed. But though I was open to anything that came my way, I never had much expectation to stay in Japan for longer than a year. I've truly enjoyed my time here, but I miss my friends and family. I miss America and I want to return. But not quite yet. I do have a few more things to do before I leave the Land of the Rising Sun. Most importantly, I am super excited to show this amazing country to my Dad.
To experience as much of Japan as we could on a limited budget and timetable, Nobie suggested that we buy a rail pass that would allow us to travel anywhere we want for 7 days for a pretty inexpensive price. That sounded perfect and I planned our travels accordingly. Then, a few months ago, it was brought to my attention by a fellow ALT that the JR rail pass is only available to people with a temporary visitor visa and with my work visa, I wasn't eligible. And so began a long, drawn out, hair-pulling process to figure out how I could purchase the pass despite this ridiculous proviso. I won't go into it too deeply, but to say that a few of my plans involved disguises, tears, and even a trip to Korea. Eventually, a friend of a friend suggested I go to the Immigration Office in Kumamoto and ask them to change my visa back to a temporary visitor after my job ended at the end of March and I no longer needed a work visa. Not quite as exciting as my plans, but a bit simpler and the one I ultimately decided to go with.
So, a few days ago I walked into the Immigration Office and requested to change my visa status. It took four Immigration officials, a few phone calls, and a bit more than an hour to work it out. At first, they couldn't understand why I needed to change my status when my work visa was good through the end of June. When I explained the rail pass, I don't think they believed me at first. One of the officials went to the JR website and another actually called JR to see if this restriction was really true. You know it's bad when even the bureaucrats are bemused at the absurdity of the Gordian Knot of Red Tape that they themselves have constructed. The sword finally sliced through and I can travel without impunity once again.
And speaking of traveling, we're back to my trip to Tokyo. It will be mid-evening when I finally arrive at my hotel in Tokyo. Dad flies in the next day and we will be spending about a week and a half traveling through Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Hiroshima before finally arriving in Kumamoto where we'll spend another week and then fly back to Kansas together.
As you can imagine, I'll probably be back in America before I post any more significant updates to this blog. But please stay tuned because I'm sure I'll have many interesting stories to tell of our journeys and tons of pictures to show.
Daddy is coming! Daddy is coming!
Album currently playing on my IPOD - Tracy Chapman's 1988 eponymous album. My Dad, always ahead of the curve, introduced me to this amazing singer-songwriter almost 8 years before all of my friends were singing along to her songs on the radio.
- Jenny
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Monday, March 30, 2009
The Song Remains The Same
My final day at school had arrived and as I drove onto the parking lot, I was shocked to find the entire lot empty. Wasn't there to be school that day? Had I been misinformed? As I sat in my car for a moment contemplating whether I should enter the building to see if I could find anyone or if I should call my OWLS advisor to see if I had misunderstood my schedule, I watched through the windows a few teachers walking down the hallway. Another few moments passed and I saw a couple of students following. Relieved, I entered the school only to find everyone in frantic preparation for graduation. Apparently, all of the teachers had parked in a nearby field to allow room for the families of the graduates.
Though I knew the 6th grade graduations for all of my schools were imminent, I wasn't aware that they were going to be held that day. And as I saw all of the teachers dressed in their Sunday's finest (a rather inappropriate expression I suppose, considering the culture), I was happy that I happened to have dressed that morning in some of my most conservative clothes; though had I known, I certainly would have worn my suit. I was amused to note that most of the men wore white ties as during one of my training sessions at OWLS, the men were warned that it was inappropriate to wear black ties for any happy event like a wedding or graduation, but that they were more suited for solemn occasions. Given that, I was surprised to see that other than white neckties on the men, black was easily the predominant color of everyone's clothing. All of men and a great majority of the women were dressed in black suits with many of the women also wearing black tops. With the kids in their navy blue suits, the gathering resembled something more like a funeral to my eyes.
Though I had remembered the grab my camera that morning with vague hopes of documenting my last day, my luck held true and as soon as I turned it on, the batteries died. So, unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the graduation, though I have to say that I'm not sure I would have felt very comfortable taking any pictures anyway. Japanese graduations are nothing like American ones. Throughout the ceremony I was reminded of a Catholic mass - it was held in a language I didn't understand with elaborate choreography that everyone else appeared to instinctually know, and with a solemnity that I doubt any American crowd could achieve at such a happy occasion. The only times the audience showed any kind of approval was with controlled applause when the graduates entered and later exited. Other than those two times, the entire crowd was silently attentive, even the little kids.
Sidenote: Speaking of the entrance and exit of the graduates, their musical accompaniment was Pachebel's 'Canon in D.' And later as they received their diplomas, another familiar classical piece was playing softly in the background. And for some reason that tickled me. It's certainly not the first time I've heard classical music - Beethoven, Mozart, Chopin - played in the schools and it always amuses me. I realize that it's ridiculous to think of these pieces of music written by someone over 200 years ago who no more spoke English than I speak Japanese as somehow more part of my culture than of this culture, but I have to admit that I kinda do. I don't know why.
And now back to our regularly scheduled program: As the ceremony began, I amused myself by counting how many times people bowed. I stopped after about twenty minutes into the ceremony at bow number 100. That's about 5 bows a minute. The graduation lasted an hour and a half. Do the math. Though, I have to be honest that the first part of the graduation was a bit bow heavy with the dispensation of diplomas while the last half was filled with speeches and songs and didn't have quite so much bowing. We had speeches from the principle, from a representative from the Board of Education, from the president of the PTA (which to my amusement, they do call the PTA and in actuality appears to consist mostly of grandparents rather than parents), a speech from a gentleman chosen to represent the graduate's parents, and one from a woman that I never did quite work out who she was. Even the younger grades were given their chance to speak, and trust me, you haven't truly lived until you have seen and heard 60 to 70 first graders flawlessly delivering a synchronized speech. It was only a few sentences, but impressive nonetheless.
Afterwards, there was about twenty minutes of people bowing to each other as we shuffled out of the gymnasium. The graduates and their parents retreated to a special picnic that only they were allowed to attend. The younger children raced away to enjoy their half day off from school. And I said my final goodbyes to my co-workers and to the school. It feels like the year went by so quickly.
Album(s) currently playing on my IPOD - Yes' 1973 Tales from Topographic Oceans and The Decemberists' 2009 The Hazards of Love. I read a review of The Decemberists' most recent album that called it, somewhat ambivalently, the group's answer to Yes' 1973 concept album. So I figured it only made sense to re-listen to Tales to before I checked out The Hazards of Love and I discovered that for me, Yes albums play much the same role as Proust's madeleines. Suddenly, I was back in the living room of the house I grew up in with my Dad sitting in his chair reading while I did my homework. It was such a comforting sense memory.
But back to the music. I understand what the critic was trying to say, however I find the Decemberists conceptual execution closer to Pink Floyd's 1979 The Wall. In the end, I have to say that I enjoy The Hazards of Love. The Decemberists are often be tagged as hyper-literary and pretentious, and I'm not going to argue strenuously that they're not. But unlike my high school English teacher, I don't mind looking up words I don't know and if given the choice, I'd rather err on the side of pretension than on the side of 'If You Seek Amy.' 5 points for the gratuitous Britney Spears reference, score!
- Jenny
Though I knew the 6th grade graduations for all of my schools were imminent, I wasn't aware that they were going to be held that day. And as I saw all of the teachers dressed in their Sunday's finest (a rather inappropriate expression I suppose, considering the culture), I was happy that I happened to have dressed that morning in some of my most conservative clothes; though had I known, I certainly would have worn my suit. I was amused to note that most of the men wore white ties as during one of my training sessions at OWLS, the men were warned that it was inappropriate to wear black ties for any happy event like a wedding or graduation, but that they were more suited for solemn occasions. Given that, I was surprised to see that other than white neckties on the men, black was easily the predominant color of everyone's clothing. All of men and a great majority of the women were dressed in black suits with many of the women also wearing black tops. With the kids in their navy blue suits, the gathering resembled something more like a funeral to my eyes.
Though I had remembered the grab my camera that morning with vague hopes of documenting my last day, my luck held true and as soon as I turned it on, the batteries died. So, unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the graduation, though I have to say that I'm not sure I would have felt very comfortable taking any pictures anyway. Japanese graduations are nothing like American ones. Throughout the ceremony I was reminded of a Catholic mass - it was held in a language I didn't understand with elaborate choreography that everyone else appeared to instinctually know, and with a solemnity that I doubt any American crowd could achieve at such a happy occasion. The only times the audience showed any kind of approval was with controlled applause when the graduates entered and later exited. Other than those two times, the entire crowd was silently attentive, even the little kids.
Sidenote: Speaking of the entrance and exit of the graduates, their musical accompaniment was Pachebel's 'Canon in D.' And later as they received their diplomas, another familiar classical piece was playing softly in the background. And for some reason that tickled me. It's certainly not the first time I've heard classical music - Beethoven, Mozart, Chopin - played in the schools and it always amuses me. I realize that it's ridiculous to think of these pieces of music written by someone over 200 years ago who no more spoke English than I speak Japanese as somehow more part of my culture than of this culture, but I have to admit that I kinda do. I don't know why.
And now back to our regularly scheduled program: As the ceremony began, I amused myself by counting how many times people bowed. I stopped after about twenty minutes into the ceremony at bow number 100. That's about 5 bows a minute. The graduation lasted an hour and a half. Do the math. Though, I have to be honest that the first part of the graduation was a bit bow heavy with the dispensation of diplomas while the last half was filled with speeches and songs and didn't have quite so much bowing. We had speeches from the principle, from a representative from the Board of Education, from the president of the PTA (which to my amusement, they do call the PTA and in actuality appears to consist mostly of grandparents rather than parents), a speech from a gentleman chosen to represent the graduate's parents, and one from a woman that I never did quite work out who she was. Even the younger grades were given their chance to speak, and trust me, you haven't truly lived until you have seen and heard 60 to 70 first graders flawlessly delivering a synchronized speech. It was only a few sentences, but impressive nonetheless.
Afterwards, there was about twenty minutes of people bowing to each other as we shuffled out of the gymnasium. The graduates and their parents retreated to a special picnic that only they were allowed to attend. The younger children raced away to enjoy their half day off from school. And I said my final goodbyes to my co-workers and to the school. It feels like the year went by so quickly.
Album(s) currently playing on my IPOD - Yes' 1973 Tales from Topographic Oceans and The Decemberists' 2009 The Hazards of Love. I read a review of The Decemberists' most recent album that called it, somewhat ambivalently, the group's answer to Yes' 1973 concept album. So I figured it only made sense to re-listen to Tales to before I checked out The Hazards of Love and I discovered that for me, Yes albums play much the same role as Proust's madeleines. Suddenly, I was back in the living room of the house I grew up in with my Dad sitting in his chair reading while I did my homework. It was such a comforting sense memory.
But back to the music. I understand what the critic was trying to say, however I find the Decemberists conceptual execution closer to Pink Floyd's 1979 The Wall. In the end, I have to say that I enjoy The Hazards of Love. The Decemberists are often be tagged as hyper-literary and pretentious, and I'm not going to argue strenuously that they're not. But unlike my high school English teacher, I don't mind looking up words I don't know and if given the choice, I'd rather err on the side of pretension than on the side of 'If You Seek Amy.' 5 points for the gratuitous Britney Spears reference, score!
- Jenny
Saturday, March 21, 2009
America's Favorite Pastime?
Did you know that right at this very moment hundreds of millions of people all across the world are tuned in on their radios and televisions to watch a major sporting event? And no, I'm not talking about NCAA men's basketball tournament. As my March Madness bracket begins to sink to the bottom of my pool, all of my neighbors, co-workers, and students are anxiously watching the Japan national team in the WBC.
The WBC? My mind was drawing a blank when Stewart first mentioned over dinner last weekend. The Women's Basketball Championship? The Women's Bowling Challenge? I was pretty sure it was Women's something. As my facial expression no doubt matched my mind, Stewart helpfully supplied an explanation. I was wrong. It's the World Baseball Classic.
The World Baseball Classic. It's the Baseball World Cup basically. It happens every four years and countries from all over the world participate. Did you even know something like this existed? Now, I don't claim to be the average American sports fan. I like to believe that I'm not the average anything. However, I do feel fairly confident that most Americans join me in my ignorance of the WBC, a fact that shocks and dismays most Japanese. This appears to be as big, if not bigger, than the Olympics. During recess and break periods, fifth and sixth year students have been begging to enter the teacher's room to watch the games on the television. It was even the main topic of discussion during my lunch with a second grade class. I had all of these 7-year-olds talking to me so earnestly about the Japanese team and I think even doing a little bit of trash talking about the upcoming Japan v. USA game. Well, we'll just see.
Album currently playing on my IPOD - Beck's 2008 Modern Guilt.
- Jenny
The WBC? My mind was drawing a blank when Stewart first mentioned over dinner last weekend. The Women's Basketball Championship? The Women's Bowling Challenge? I was pretty sure it was Women's something. As my facial expression no doubt matched my mind, Stewart helpfully supplied an explanation. I was wrong. It's the World Baseball Classic.
The World Baseball Classic. It's the Baseball World Cup basically. It happens every four years and countries from all over the world participate. Did you even know something like this existed? Now, I don't claim to be the average American sports fan. I like to believe that I'm not the average anything. However, I do feel fairly confident that most Americans join me in my ignorance of the WBC, a fact that shocks and dismays most Japanese. This appears to be as big, if not bigger, than the Olympics. During recess and break periods, fifth and sixth year students have been begging to enter the teacher's room to watch the games on the television. It was even the main topic of discussion during my lunch with a second grade class. I had all of these 7-year-olds talking to me so earnestly about the Japanese team and I think even doing a little bit of trash talking about the upcoming Japan v. USA game. Well, we'll just see.
Album currently playing on my IPOD - Beck's 2008 Modern Guilt.
- Jenny
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Food Fight!
We've headed into this twilight days of the school year, which of course, means assemblies, events, and other special to-dos. Everyday my class schedule is tweaked: a change in class location, in class time, sometimes even the cancellation of a class.
Last week at Shichijo Sho Gakku, we had a school picnic. I was informed a few days earlier and was told to wear comfortable, casual clothes and to bring a hat and bento. Bento is basically the japanese version of a sack lunch. I considered going to the nearest Hirai Bento store of which there are practically one per block in Kumamoto and simply buying a pre-made bento, but decided that one of my goals as an ALT is to expose the students to a different culture, so instead I went to the grocery store and began to construct my own American style bento. To truly show a traditional American style sack lunch, I should have packed a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Just the thought of such an absurd combination is enough to send most Japanese children into a fit of giggles. Unfortunately, I don't like peanut butter, so that was out of the question. Instead, I had packed some sliced canadian bacon, Ritz crackers, apple slices, and two types of cheeses, camembert and aged gouda.
Of course, the day of the picnic began overcast and drizzling. And given the fact that about a 1/5 of the kids had influenza, the principle made the command decision to move the picnic indoors to the gymnasium. I sat with the 4th graders and watched as they all retrieved the small handkerchief wrapped bento boxes from their backpacks. ( For a better idea of what I mean, check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Home_made_Bento.jpg) They were already reaching for their chopsticks when I opened my sack lunch and the chopsticks were suspended mid air as they watched with fascination as I revealed my lunch. The kids thought my sandwiches made of crackers, bacon, and camembert were ingenious. But, it was the sight of me eating slices of apple and gouda cheese that sent them into hysterics.
Their own lunches consisted of rice - every child had rice of some kind in their bento, some small meat or fish- usually a very, very small piece of chicken, meatball, or small shrimp, and some fruit - most popular was strawberries as they are in season. Also found in the bentos were various forms of pickled vegetables. And unlike any American child's sack lunch, there was not a sweet to be seen.
We all had a nice time and thankfully I had brought enough crackers to share with the small circle of 4th grade girls I was sitting with. Afterwards, we all played dodgebee, a combination of dodgeball and frisbee and a favorite of all of my students. Alas, we never had the food fight I was so hoping for yet unfortunately unable to start myself in my position of authority.
Album currently playing on my IPOD - The Band's 1978 The Last Waltz. An amazing album and an even better movie. The documentary recording of The Band's 1976 Thanksgiving farewell concert, directed by Martin Scorsese, is perhaps the greatest concert film ever made.
Current reading material - In celebration of St. Patrick's Day, since I refuse to wear green and I abstain from all alcohol on this day, I have been reading poems by one of Ireland's favorite sons, W.B. Yeats. You can check some of them out at http://www.poetryfoundation.org/archive/poet.html?id=7597. While "The Second Coming" is a sentimental, if cliche, favorite of mine; it is "The Lake Isle of Innisfree" which has captured my imagination and fancy.
- Jenny
Last week at Shichijo Sho Gakku, we had a school picnic. I was informed a few days earlier and was told to wear comfortable, casual clothes and to bring a hat and bento. Bento is basically the japanese version of a sack lunch. I considered going to the nearest Hirai Bento store of which there are practically one per block in Kumamoto and simply buying a pre-made bento, but decided that one of my goals as an ALT is to expose the students to a different culture, so instead I went to the grocery store and began to construct my own American style bento. To truly show a traditional American style sack lunch, I should have packed a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Just the thought of such an absurd combination is enough to send most Japanese children into a fit of giggles. Unfortunately, I don't like peanut butter, so that was out of the question. Instead, I had packed some sliced canadian bacon, Ritz crackers, apple slices, and two types of cheeses, camembert and aged gouda.
Of course, the day of the picnic began overcast and drizzling. And given the fact that about a 1/5 of the kids had influenza, the principle made the command decision to move the picnic indoors to the gymnasium. I sat with the 4th graders and watched as they all retrieved the small handkerchief wrapped bento boxes from their backpacks. ( For a better idea of what I mean, check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Home_made_Bento.jpg) They were already reaching for their chopsticks when I opened my sack lunch and the chopsticks were suspended mid air as they watched with fascination as I revealed my lunch. The kids thought my sandwiches made of crackers, bacon, and camembert were ingenious. But, it was the sight of me eating slices of apple and gouda cheese that sent them into hysterics.
Their own lunches consisted of rice - every child had rice of some kind in their bento, some small meat or fish- usually a very, very small piece of chicken, meatball, or small shrimp, and some fruit - most popular was strawberries as they are in season. Also found in the bentos were various forms of pickled vegetables. And unlike any American child's sack lunch, there was not a sweet to be seen.
We all had a nice time and thankfully I had brought enough crackers to share with the small circle of 4th grade girls I was sitting with. Afterwards, we all played dodgebee, a combination of dodgeball and frisbee and a favorite of all of my students. Alas, we never had the food fight I was so hoping for yet unfortunately unable to start myself in my position of authority.
Album currently playing on my IPOD - The Band's 1978 The Last Waltz. An amazing album and an even better movie. The documentary recording of The Band's 1976 Thanksgiving farewell concert, directed by Martin Scorsese, is perhaps the greatest concert film ever made.
Current reading material - In celebration of St. Patrick's Day, since I refuse to wear green and I abstain from all alcohol on this day, I have been reading poems by one of Ireland's favorite sons, W.B. Yeats. You can check some of them out at http://www.poetryfoundation.org/archive/poet.html?id=7597. While "The Second Coming" is a sentimental, if cliche, favorite of mine; it is "The Lake Isle of Innisfree" which has captured my imagination and fancy.
- Jenny
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Shine On, You Crazy...
As I was on my daily walk yesterday, I passed a house and noticed a few articles of clothing hanging out to dry. One was a dark blue t-shirt with the words 'Silver butterflies go better with JESUS' printed on it in silver lettering. Indeed. Well, who am I to argue?
Another sign that caught my attention as I was walking down Shimotori last weekend was for a Thai restaurant named Cabbages and Condoms. No joke. I'm reminded of an urban legend I once heard... Well anyway, I've heard they have fantastic Thai food.
Album currently playing on my IPOD - Pink Floyd's 1975 Wish You Were Here.
- Jenny
Another sign that caught my attention as I was walking down Shimotori last weekend was for a Thai restaurant named Cabbages and Condoms. No joke. I'm reminded of an urban legend I once heard... Well anyway, I've heard they have fantastic Thai food.
Album currently playing on my IPOD - Pink Floyd's 1975 Wish You Were Here.
- Jenny
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Out of The Mouths of Babes
A few months ago, many of my students began the, at first disconcerting habit of shouting 'Yes, we can!" at random moments. Several would continue on with "Big Boss Obama!" to which a very few would counter with "Clinton!" Since then, "Yes, we can" has been fully integrated into my lessons. Instead of asking the students to stand up, sit down, play a game, etc., I ask, "Can we...?" Without pausing and in unison, the entire class will yell "Yes, we can!"
At first, I didn't understand the timing of this "Yes, we can!" outbreak, but I have since acquired a reasonable explanation. Recently, a set of books and tapes have come out using Pres. Obama's speeches as a teaching tool to teach English and they have become very popular here in Japan. No doubt, my students have picked up "Yes, we can" from their family or teachers who have purchased the books and tapes.
Obama started the election season fairly popular with the Japanese people as there is a town in Japan named 'Obama'. And his popularity has only risen since taking office with the attentions his administration has paid to Japan (Secretary Clinton's first official trip being to Japan and Pres. Obama's first White House invitation to a head of state to the Japanese Prime Minister Taro Aso). But like many Americans, it is Obama's public speaking that has primarily captured the attentions, both good and bad, of the Japanese people.
On one hand, the Japanese as a society place very little value on rhetoric. They embrace displays of emotion rather than eloquence. In fact, they tend to believe that if someone has the presence of mind to be eloquent, that person cannot feel deeply on which they are speaking. Therefore, the more eloquently one speaks on a subject, the less they must feel about that topic.
But, like many societies, that on which they scoff is often that at which they cannot do themselves and they find themselves jealous of those who can. And so, books and tapes of Obama's public speeches fly off the proverbial shelves beginning a process which ends with young elementary schoolchildren shout "Yes, we can!" to their American school teacher.
Another Americanism that my students have surprised me with is "I'm lovin' it." Several students had to say it a few times before I finally accepted that I was hearing them correctly. It wasn't until one said "Makudonaredo" which is how Japanese pronounce 'McDonald's' before my suspicions were confirmed. I do my best to ignore the sad commercialism represented by this phrase and instead celebrate the fact that they are speaking English.
Album(s) currently playing on my IPOD - David Bowie's 1971 Hunky Dory and Nirvana's 1994 MTV Unplugged in New York.
Current reading material - James Joyce's 1914 collection of short stories, Dubliners. Stewart once talked of reading a book on Norse mythology and being overcome with a feeling of "These are my people. This is where I come from." I understand what he means when I read Joyce's Dubliners. These are my people. This is where I come from. These are not happy stories, in fact many have a certain melancholy about them. But, there is a always a moment where a clarity is found. Often, that moment is brushed over and sometimes willfully ignored by the characters, but in that moment of clarity, I find great hope and in the honesty of Joyce's writing, I find great beauty.
- Jenny
At first, I didn't understand the timing of this "Yes, we can!" outbreak, but I have since acquired a reasonable explanation. Recently, a set of books and tapes have come out using Pres. Obama's speeches as a teaching tool to teach English and they have become very popular here in Japan. No doubt, my students have picked up "Yes, we can" from their family or teachers who have purchased the books and tapes.
Obama started the election season fairly popular with the Japanese people as there is a town in Japan named 'Obama'. And his popularity has only risen since taking office with the attentions his administration has paid to Japan (Secretary Clinton's first official trip being to Japan and Pres. Obama's first White House invitation to a head of state to the Japanese Prime Minister Taro Aso). But like many Americans, it is Obama's public speaking that has primarily captured the attentions, both good and bad, of the Japanese people.
On one hand, the Japanese as a society place very little value on rhetoric. They embrace displays of emotion rather than eloquence. In fact, they tend to believe that if someone has the presence of mind to be eloquent, that person cannot feel deeply on which they are speaking. Therefore, the more eloquently one speaks on a subject, the less they must feel about that topic.
But, like many societies, that on which they scoff is often that at which they cannot do themselves and they find themselves jealous of those who can. And so, books and tapes of Obama's public speeches fly off the proverbial shelves beginning a process which ends with young elementary schoolchildren shout "Yes, we can!" to their American school teacher.
Another Americanism that my students have surprised me with is "I'm lovin' it." Several students had to say it a few times before I finally accepted that I was hearing them correctly. It wasn't until one said "Makudonaredo" which is how Japanese pronounce 'McDonald's' before my suspicions were confirmed. I do my best to ignore the sad commercialism represented by this phrase and instead celebrate the fact that they are speaking English.
Album(s) currently playing on my IPOD - David Bowie's 1971 Hunky Dory and Nirvana's 1994 MTV Unplugged in New York.
Current reading material - James Joyce's 1914 collection of short stories, Dubliners. Stewart once talked of reading a book on Norse mythology and being overcome with a feeling of "These are my people. This is where I come from." I understand what he means when I read Joyce's Dubliners. These are my people. This is where I come from. These are not happy stories, in fact many have a certain melancholy about them. But, there is a always a moment where a clarity is found. Often, that moment is brushed over and sometimes willfully ignored by the characters, but in that moment of clarity, I find great hope and in the honesty of Joyce's writing, I find great beauty.
- Jenny
Thursday, February 19, 2009
And the Angels Sing...
... a new post has arrived.
A long, long time ago (about a month and a half) in a bed far, far away (Kumamoto, Japan), I awoke unusually early on New Year's Day.
My use of the phrase 'unusually early' is, of course, relative. Compared to my usual wake up time during a school week, it was rather late. Compared to my usual wake up time for a holiday or the weekend, it was only a little early. Compared to my usual wake up time for New Year's Day, it was unusually early.
Whereas Americans traditionally celebrate making it through one more year by participating in a night of debauchery on New Year's Eve before waking late the next day to begin the New Year with an earnest intent of improving and 'being good,' Japanese focus on the coming year by celebrating a series of 'firsts' on New Year's Day: Hatsuhinode - the first sunrise of the new year, hatsumode - the first visit to a shrine, and the completely unAmerican celebration of shigoto-hijame - the first work of the new year.
Anyway, I set my alarm early because I was invited for osechi-ryori by my neighbor, Endoh-san. Osechi-ryori, often shortened to osechi, is the traditional first meal of the new year and when many of my friends and acquaintances found out I had no plans for New Year's Day, they were dismayed at the thought that I would miss osechi or that I would eat it alone. However, osechi is a very special occasion for family and not something an outsider is casually invited to. Endoh-san, though, doesn't have family in the area and was happy to share her first meal with me.
The tradition of osechi-ryori started in the Heian Period (794 - 1185) and the dishes that compose this traditional meal haven't changed much since that time. So you can image how delicious it is. Arranged in special boxes called jubako, they are usually purchased already made and each food inside has a special meaning. They include:
Kamaboko - broiled fish paste. Colored red and white, the color and shape of the kamaboko are reminiscent of the rising sun, the traditional symbol of Japan.
Kazunoko - herring roe. The kanji for Kazunoko means numerous children and is basically a symbol of fertility.
Kondu - a kind of seaweed. Through odd connections in its kanji, this symbolizes joy in the New Year.
Kuro-mame - black soybeans. Mame also means "health" and this symbolizes a wish for health in the New Year. These are actually pretty good.
Daidai - Japanese bitter orange. The kanji for this fruit means "from generation to generation" and symbolizes a wish for children in the New Year. This is the most prominent symbol of the New Year and is found in almost all New Year Decorations and shrine offerings. These are also found year round in Japan and are delicious.
Boiled vegetables such as carrots cut into the shape of lotus blossoms symbolizing beauty and strength through adversity, mushrooms cut into hexagons reminiscent of a turtle's shell symbolizing long life, and bamboo shoots to represent renewal.
Our jubako also included shrimp, konnyaku, and sweet omelette; as well, as a Kumamoto specialty, lotus root boiled and covered in spicy mustard then fried. The lotus root with its pattern of holes circling one central hole is reminiscent of the symbol of the Hosokawa clan, the last and longest ruling clan of Kumamoto.
The final course of our osechi was ozoni, a soup with the mochi rice cakes that we made during mochitsuki. Though ozoni can be found on every family's osechi menu, the style of the soup can differ greatly. According to Wikipedia, a soup of clear broth is popular in eastern Japan (for Americans, that's anywhere north of Tokyo), while miso broth is traditional in western Japan (south of Tokyo). Endoh-san said that some regional styles included pork or beef; tofu and a variety of vegetables also can make an appearance in the ozoni. For our ozoni, Endoh-san said that she made it as her mother made it which was in the style that Endoh-san's father grew up with in a small town north between Tokyo and Kyoto. It was a very traditional miso broth with seaweed and mochi.
Osechi-ryori is not made of food alone, however. Just as important as the food we eat for the first meal of the New Year is what we drink. Now, I had brought a bottle of wine as a gift of appreciation to my hostess, but I had absolutely no intention of uncorking it for our meal. It was ten in the morning for heaven's sake!
We didn't drink the California red as it turns out. Apparently, it is traditional to begin the New Year by drinking sake. Much as Americans drink champagne on New Year's Eve as an indulgence or a reward for for the previous year, Japanese drink sake on New Year's Day as a hope or promise for the coming year. I sincerely believe that this difference in celebration reveals something profound regarding the Japanese versus American perspective, but I'm not quite sure what.
Anyway, when I arrived at Endoh-san's apartment, she had already opened a new bottle of sake and in the spirit of 'It's after five somewhere in the world,' I happily accepted my glass. Now, as I wrote previously, etiquette in Japan has it that you must fill your neighbor's glass and never your own. So, in the almost 3 hours that Endoh-san and I sat on the floor at her dining table, enjoyed the traditional foods of osechi and talked, we finished the bottle of sake. An indulgence, indeed!
Ito-san, the lady I sublet from, joined us around 1 pm after having osechi with her elderly parents. We all enjoyed a cup of green tea and some conversation before Ito-san and I left for hatsumode, our first visit to a shrine in the New Year, or I should say our first visit to shrines - plural - in the New Year.
First, we visited the Kato shrine at Kumamoto Castle. Though it was about 2 in the afternoon and pilgrimages to visit shrines begin at midnight on New Year's Day for many people, we still found a crowd of several hundred making their way to the shrine. Stands lined the entrance to the shrine selling all kinds of street food - takoyaki, grilled squid, and Japanese versions of hamburgers and hot dogs - as well as traditional shrine offerings. The most popular offering I noticed was a blunt arrow which Ito-san explained people would place in front of their family shrine at home which would protect the home and family from harm for the coming year. The arrow would remain for the entire year until next hatsumode where the family would purchase another arrow to replace it.
Our next stop was a small shrine just off Kamitori, which unlike the Kato shrine at Kumamoto Castle, is a good example of folk shinto. This shrine is dedicated to a politician of the early Meiji period who was disgraced in Edo - modern day Tokyo - and basically exiled to Kyushu where he became an honored scholar and poet. Today, this shrine is popular with artists and somewhat paradoxically, students eager to pray and make an offering the night before a big exam in hopes that it will help. There were no food stands here or people selling small charms and shrine offerings. And with only a handful of people visiting, this was both Ito-san's and my favorite shrine.
Finally, we walked the short distance to Fujisaki-gu Shrine, the seemingly opposite of the folk shrine we had just seen. The 'gu' at the end of Fujisaki-gu indicates that this shrine is a state shinto shrine. Not surprisingly, this was the most crowded shrine of the three and the one suffering from the most commercialization. And though I rolled my eyes at the commercial intrusion of this ancient religious rite, I do have to admit that I got some of the best fried potatoes I've ever had at one of the food stands there.
Well, after suffering the crowds for hatsumode, Ito-san and I returned to Endoh-san's apartment and rejoined her for hatsugama, the first tea ceremony of the New Year. To something of a surprise to me, the average Japanese person does not know a whole lot more about a traditional tea ceremony than I do. Ito-san and I were both novices to the practice. Thankfully, Endoh-san had taken classes and was fully prepared to walk us through.
Did you know that a traditional tea ceremony will last several hours and included a full meal? Our tea ceremony only lasted about an hour and was very relaxed. Endoh-san explained the purpose and symbolism of each step and told about all of the rules governing behavior at a tea ceremony. And there are a lot of rules: who can talk, who you can talk to, when you can talk, how to give and receive and from who you can give and receive. It's crazy and made me completely understand why someone would have to take several classes to learn and a lot of practice to master. The tea was delicious, however, and the sweets were good as well.
It was around seven o'clock when I finally returned home exhausted and ready for a good ole' American meal of popcorn and Coke.
Though the prospect of spending New Year's Day alone wasn't nearly as dreadful for me as it seemed to by Japanese friends, I was incredibly appreciative to Endoh-san and Ito-san for spending the day with me and sharing their fascinating customs.
Album(s) currently playing on my IPOD - Bob Dylan's 1966 Blonde on Blonde, Jeff Buckley's 1994 Grace, and Josh Ritter's 2002 Golden Age of Radio.
Current reading material - Julian Barnes' 1989 novel, A History of the World in 10 1/2 chapters. Slightly irreverant, incredibly witty, and curiously optimistic in the way that only a true cynic can be. I love it.
- Jenny
A long, long time ago (about a month and a half) in a bed far, far away (Kumamoto, Japan), I awoke unusually early on New Year's Day.
My use of the phrase 'unusually early' is, of course, relative. Compared to my usual wake up time during a school week, it was rather late. Compared to my usual wake up time for a holiday or the weekend, it was only a little early. Compared to my usual wake up time for New Year's Day, it was unusually early.
Whereas Americans traditionally celebrate making it through one more year by participating in a night of debauchery on New Year's Eve before waking late the next day to begin the New Year with an earnest intent of improving and 'being good,' Japanese focus on the coming year by celebrating a series of 'firsts' on New Year's Day: Hatsuhinode - the first sunrise of the new year, hatsumode - the first visit to a shrine, and the completely unAmerican celebration of shigoto-hijame - the first work of the new year.
Anyway, I set my alarm early because I was invited for osechi-ryori by my neighbor, Endoh-san. Osechi-ryori, often shortened to osechi, is the traditional first meal of the new year and when many of my friends and acquaintances found out I had no plans for New Year's Day, they were dismayed at the thought that I would miss osechi or that I would eat it alone. However, osechi is a very special occasion for family and not something an outsider is casually invited to. Endoh-san, though, doesn't have family in the area and was happy to share her first meal with me.
The tradition of osechi-ryori started in the Heian Period (794 - 1185) and the dishes that compose this traditional meal haven't changed much since that time. So you can image how delicious it is. Arranged in special boxes called jubako, they are usually purchased already made and each food inside has a special meaning. They include:
Kamaboko - broiled fish paste. Colored red and white, the color and shape of the kamaboko are reminiscent of the rising sun, the traditional symbol of Japan.
Kazunoko - herring roe. The kanji for Kazunoko means numerous children and is basically a symbol of fertility.
Kondu - a kind of seaweed. Through odd connections in its kanji, this symbolizes joy in the New Year.
Kuro-mame - black soybeans. Mame also means "health" and this symbolizes a wish for health in the New Year. These are actually pretty good.
Daidai - Japanese bitter orange. The kanji for this fruit means "from generation to generation" and symbolizes a wish for children in the New Year. This is the most prominent symbol of the New Year and is found in almost all New Year Decorations and shrine offerings. These are also found year round in Japan and are delicious.
Boiled vegetables such as carrots cut into the shape of lotus blossoms symbolizing beauty and strength through adversity, mushrooms cut into hexagons reminiscent of a turtle's shell symbolizing long life, and bamboo shoots to represent renewal.
Our jubako also included shrimp, konnyaku, and sweet omelette; as well, as a Kumamoto specialty, lotus root boiled and covered in spicy mustard then fried. The lotus root with its pattern of holes circling one central hole is reminiscent of the symbol of the Hosokawa clan, the last and longest ruling clan of Kumamoto.
The final course of our osechi was ozoni, a soup with the mochi rice cakes that we made during mochitsuki. Though ozoni can be found on every family's osechi menu, the style of the soup can differ greatly. According to Wikipedia, a soup of clear broth is popular in eastern Japan (for Americans, that's anywhere north of Tokyo), while miso broth is traditional in western Japan (south of Tokyo). Endoh-san said that some regional styles included pork or beef; tofu and a variety of vegetables also can make an appearance in the ozoni. For our ozoni, Endoh-san said that she made it as her mother made it which was in the style that Endoh-san's father grew up with in a small town north between Tokyo and Kyoto. It was a very traditional miso broth with seaweed and mochi.
Osechi-ryori is not made of food alone, however. Just as important as the food we eat for the first meal of the New Year is what we drink. Now, I had brought a bottle of wine as a gift of appreciation to my hostess, but I had absolutely no intention of uncorking it for our meal. It was ten in the morning for heaven's sake!
We didn't drink the California red as it turns out. Apparently, it is traditional to begin the New Year by drinking sake. Much as Americans drink champagne on New Year's Eve as an indulgence or a reward for for the previous year, Japanese drink sake on New Year's Day as a hope or promise for the coming year. I sincerely believe that this difference in celebration reveals something profound regarding the Japanese versus American perspective, but I'm not quite sure what.
Anyway, when I arrived at Endoh-san's apartment, she had already opened a new bottle of sake and in the spirit of 'It's after five somewhere in the world,' I happily accepted my glass. Now, as I wrote previously, etiquette in Japan has it that you must fill your neighbor's glass and never your own. So, in the almost 3 hours that Endoh-san and I sat on the floor at her dining table, enjoyed the traditional foods of osechi and talked, we finished the bottle of sake. An indulgence, indeed!
Ito-san, the lady I sublet from, joined us around 1 pm after having osechi with her elderly parents. We all enjoyed a cup of green tea and some conversation before Ito-san and I left for hatsumode, our first visit to a shrine in the New Year, or I should say our first visit to shrines - plural - in the New Year.
First, we visited the Kato shrine at Kumamoto Castle. Though it was about 2 in the afternoon and pilgrimages to visit shrines begin at midnight on New Year's Day for many people, we still found a crowd of several hundred making their way to the shrine. Stands lined the entrance to the shrine selling all kinds of street food - takoyaki, grilled squid, and Japanese versions of hamburgers and hot dogs - as well as traditional shrine offerings. The most popular offering I noticed was a blunt arrow which Ito-san explained people would place in front of their family shrine at home which would protect the home and family from harm for the coming year. The arrow would remain for the entire year until next hatsumode where the family would purchase another arrow to replace it.
Our next stop was a small shrine just off Kamitori, which unlike the Kato shrine at Kumamoto Castle, is a good example of folk shinto. This shrine is dedicated to a politician of the early Meiji period who was disgraced in Edo - modern day Tokyo - and basically exiled to Kyushu where he became an honored scholar and poet. Today, this shrine is popular with artists and somewhat paradoxically, students eager to pray and make an offering the night before a big exam in hopes that it will help. There were no food stands here or people selling small charms and shrine offerings. And with only a handful of people visiting, this was both Ito-san's and my favorite shrine.
Finally, we walked the short distance to Fujisaki-gu Shrine, the seemingly opposite of the folk shrine we had just seen. The 'gu' at the end of Fujisaki-gu indicates that this shrine is a state shinto shrine. Not surprisingly, this was the most crowded shrine of the three and the one suffering from the most commercialization. And though I rolled my eyes at the commercial intrusion of this ancient religious rite, I do have to admit that I got some of the best fried potatoes I've ever had at one of the food stands there.
Well, after suffering the crowds for hatsumode, Ito-san and I returned to Endoh-san's apartment and rejoined her for hatsugama, the first tea ceremony of the New Year. To something of a surprise to me, the average Japanese person does not know a whole lot more about a traditional tea ceremony than I do. Ito-san and I were both novices to the practice. Thankfully, Endoh-san had taken classes and was fully prepared to walk us through.
Did you know that a traditional tea ceremony will last several hours and included a full meal? Our tea ceremony only lasted about an hour and was very relaxed. Endoh-san explained the purpose and symbolism of each step and told about all of the rules governing behavior at a tea ceremony. And there are a lot of rules: who can talk, who you can talk to, when you can talk, how to give and receive and from who you can give and receive. It's crazy and made me completely understand why someone would have to take several classes to learn and a lot of practice to master. The tea was delicious, however, and the sweets were good as well.
It was around seven o'clock when I finally returned home exhausted and ready for a good ole' American meal of popcorn and Coke.
Though the prospect of spending New Year's Day alone wasn't nearly as dreadful for me as it seemed to by Japanese friends, I was incredibly appreciative to Endoh-san and Ito-san for spending the day with me and sharing their fascinating customs.
Album(s) currently playing on my IPOD - Bob Dylan's 1966 Blonde on Blonde, Jeff Buckley's 1994 Grace, and Josh Ritter's 2002 Golden Age of Radio.
Current reading material - Julian Barnes' 1989 novel, A History of the World in 10 1/2 chapters. Slightly irreverant, incredibly witty, and curiously optimistic in the way that only a true cynic can be. I love it.
- Jenny
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